The New York Times

One Pot

By Elaine Louie, February 20, 2008

Irene Khin Wong grew up in Yangon, Myanmar. The memory of one particular dish, redolent of curry, fish sauce, garlic and ginger, takes her back to her childhood there.

“My mother would make Panthay noodles in the morning,” said Ms. Wong, the owner and director of Saffron 59, a catering firm in Manhattan. (Panthay is the Burmese word for Chinese Muslims.)

The flavorful tangle of noodles was topped with cubes of sautéed chicken thigh, baby bok choy and slivered carrots.

The dish, which has silkiness, crunch and toothsomeness, is eaten at home and is also sold by outdoor vendors in Yangon, the city formerly called Rangoon, in the country formerly called Burma.

“We eat it for breakfast and lunch,” Ms. Wong said, “but usually not for dinner, which is when the Burmese eat rice — not noodles — along with meat and vegetables.” She considers it fusion food, a mix of Chinese and Indian cultures.

“The Chinese brought the noodles, soy sauce and bok choy, and the Indians brought the curry,” said Ms. Wong, who makes it for herself at least twice a month, and for her clients on request.

From the New York Times, February 2008

Panthay Noodles

Adapted from Irene Khin Wong, Saffron 59

  • 6 tablespoons canola or other vegetable oil
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 7 ounces fresh Asian noodles or dried egg noodles
  • 5 ounces skinless, boneless chicken thigh meat, cut into slices 1½ inches long by 1 inch wide by ½-inch thick
  • 1 medium onion, diced
  • 1½ teaspoons (about 2 cloves) minced garlic
  • 1½ teaspoons minced fresh ginger
  • 1 teaspoon curry powder
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 2 teaspoons fish sauce
  • 8 ounces baby bok choy, cut lengthwise into pieces 1½ to 2 inches wide
  • ¼ cup peeled, finely slivered carrot
  • ½ cup chopped cilantro leaves
  • 2 to 4 lemon wedges, for serving.

Directions:

  1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add 1 tablespoon oil and a sprinkle of salt. Boil noodles until barely tender, 2 to 4 minutes. Drain, rinse thoroughly under cold water and drain again. Set aside.
  2. Season chicken pieces with frac14; teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper; set aside. Place a medium skillet over medium heat and add 2 tablespoons oil. Add onion, garlic and ginger, and sauté until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add chicken, curry powder, paprika, fish sauce and 2 tablespoons water. Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer until chicken is cooked, about 5 minutes. Turn off heat and keep warm.
  3. Place a large skillet over medium heat and add remaining 3 tablespoons oil. Add bok choy and sauté until wilted, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Add carrots and noodles and sauté until well heated, 2 to 3 minutes. Adjust salt and pepper to taste.
  4. To serve, divide noodle mixture between two warm plates. Top each portion with half the chicken mixture. Garnish with cilantro and lemon wedges.

Yield: 2 servings | Time: 30 minutes

Cool Gift Wrapping That Packs a Crunch

By Elaine Louie, June 13, 2001

“Irene Khin Wong has developed a recipe for amok, a Cambodian dish of curried monkfish or codfish gently seasoned with coconut milk, turmeric, paprica, ginger, garlic, chili and fish sauce. The pale yellow curried fish sits prettily in a lettuce leaf.

From the New York Times, June 2001

Cambodian Amok Wrap

  • 1 pound monkfish or cod fillets
  • Salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • ¼ cup coconut milk
  • ¼ teaspoon turmeric
  • ¼ teaspoon paprika
  • ¼ teaspoon curry powder, optional
  • 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
  • 2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh Thai chili pepper, seeds included
  • 2 teaspoons Southeast Asian fish sauce
  • 2 tablespoons canola oil
  • ½ cup thinly sliced onion
  • 12 baby bibb lettuce leaves
  • 1 tablespoon shredded fresh kaffir lime leaves, if desired.

Directions:

  1. Cut fish into ½-inch chunks. Season to taste with salt and pepper; set aside.
  2. In a medium bowl, combine coconut milk, turmeric, paprika, curry powder, ginger, garlic, chili pepper and fish sauce. Mix well. Add fish pieces, and toss until well coated. Let marinate 15 minutes.
  3. Place a large skillet over medium-high heat. Heat oil, and add onions. Saute onions until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add fish mixture, and saute until fish is opaque, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat, and allow to cool to room temperature.
  4. Spoon into lettuce cups, and place three cups on each of 4 plates. Garnish with kaffir lime leaves, and serve.

Yield: 4 servings | Time: 45 Minutes